Also known as the ‘Antwerp Rose’ and the ‘Dutch Cut’, among other names, the ‘Rose Cut’ is one of the oldest examples of a cut stone, and originated in the mid-sixteenth century. In order to try to reflect some light through the crown, Rose cut stones were mounted with a reflective back. The basic Rose cuts have three or six facets while the ‘Full Rose Cut’ has 24. These were mostly cut in Amsterdam which took over from Antwerp as the diamond centre of the world. Diamonds were traditionally inspected by candlelight – this gave a warm glow to the greyish and slightly yellowish stones and made them more appealing.
In the late nineteenth century, brilliant cut stones became more popular and jewellers tended to buy Rose cuts to have them recut into brilliant cut. Consequently, good quality Rose cuts are hard to find. Rose cuts can generally be found today in seventeenth and eighteenth century antique jewellery.